21 micron is the measurement of a precise choice of style which gives fabrics character, resilience, crease resistance and perfect drape, as well as a pleasantly dry hand. These are unique qualities, whose secrets are jealously guarded by the material that animates them, intentionally thicker, full-bodied, stretchy and vibrant wools of South American origins.
The search for the perfect fibre required Vitale Barberis Canonico to undertake a long and fascinating journey, travelling almost to the ends of the earth to Argentina and Uruguay, to never-ending, windswept lands, the ideal environment for animal breeders with great respect for nature. Indeed, the particular weather conditions and the care of the breeders ensure the wellbeing of the animals in a completely natural way, as well as guaranteeing the quality of the fibre.
In South America, the meticulous work of selection and the close collaboration with the local breeders facilitate the identification of lots which correspond to the wool mill’s strict quality parameters, most importantly the style of the fleece and its crimp, the rhythmic wave of the fibre, which preserves the inner memories of the wool. In Italy, the textile-producing know-how of Vitale Barberis Canonico transforms this raw material, which is somewhat thicker and therefore seemingly “ordinary”, into a range of extraordinary fabrics, symbols of an elegance which is crease resistant and which can face the challenges of time with poise.
The iconic Vitale Barberis Canonico worsted flannel, a must-have for the winter season, has now been reinterpreted in the special 21 Micron wool with a mouliné yarn that heightens its three-dimensionality. For a perfect marriage of elegance with crease-resistant, strong performance.
Iridescent herringbone suit fabric, always elegant in classic beige with a red shimmer, or in one of the new colours presented, ranging from natural tones to the more unconventional such as purple, Sienna brown and green.
Covert is a worsted batavia weave, of winter weight, clear-cut and compact. It is easily recognisable because of its clearly visible ribbing, steep diagonals and marbled effect. This latter is due to the jaspé warp, or it could also be mouliné, which gives it a lively, rustic appearance. The country character makes it similar to cavalry twill, but it is easily distinguished by its chromatic effect and single, not double, diagonal. Covert is suitable for trousers and jackets ranging from sport to informal. Olive greens, browns, ginger or grey, whatever the colour, in a Covert, it is always speckled.
For the Montecarlo fabric, Vitale Barberis Canonico has chosen a three-dimensional hopsack weave where the movement of the surface is guaranteed by the complexity of the structure. Hopsack is crease resistant and extremely breathable, but in order to find the full expression of its other qualities, it must be created in the extraordinary 21 Micron wool. Vitale Barberis Canonico has set the weight at 280 g, which provides great freedom of choice. Available in 54 different colours, this airy and extremely versatile fabric is ideal for essentially summer jackets, while when lined, it is also perfect for mid-season wear.
The high torsion in both the warp and weft gives it an energetic hand, which distinguishes it from byssus, which has a lesser torsion and therefore is looser in the weft than in the warp. The result is a perfect balance between its aim and the results achieved which ensure its enviable longevity. In photos, films and albums from the 1930s, it is clear that many fabrics have been dropped from the range available today, but not tropicals, which have confirmed their presence as a gauge of men who know how to take care of both the practical and the abstract. Adopted by various generations and in every setting, it has gained both formal and informal experience, even at sports events, and is now one of the most versatile fabrics available.
The 4-ply twist, created using 21 Micron wools and with a weight of 410 g/m, is created with connoisseurs in mind. The wools, which are deliberately thicker, instil character, and the skilful twist is airy and crease-resistant. In plains, it can be formal without being too austere, and in striped it has a touch of the city professional, but with an energy which prevents it from seeming stiff. As a blazer it demonstrates a dynamism which leaves its mark. In spite of its weight, this fabric is exceptionally breathable and when lined, offers the coolness of a lighter fabric in spring or summer, with the presence and durability of a fuller weight.
Superbio is traditional from the start, from the batavia weave, which favours the drape and smoothness of the fabric. The Superbio is inspired by the serenity of a classic world; in every situation it has a specific flavour, a place and a time. Tradition which takes pride in representation isn’t a box full of old memories, nor is it the greenhouse to make everything grow instantly, but the garden where plants flourish each in their own season. Superbio is best in winter, when its comforting weight, the sobriety of its colours and the severity of its fancy designs are in harmony with the period of hibernation in the world of nature. A fabric which should be hand-sewn, which should exploit the know-how and imagination of a centuries-old tailor’s shop for those who love to be well dressed.